{"id":7867,"date":"2024-11-29T11:20:51","date_gmt":"2024-11-29T11:20:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.fabiopanzeri.com\/?p=7867"},"modified":"2024-11-29T12:58:28","modified_gmt":"2024-11-29T12:58:28","slug":"the-mistery-of-jaguar-6","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fabiopanzeri.com\/it_it\/2024\/11\/29\/the-mistery-of-jaguar-6\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cFashion\u2019s Identity Crisis: The Misguided Pursuit of Youth Over Talent\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\"><br>The generational divide has become a cultural fault line in fashion, fueled by social media and echoed by fashion media eager to court younger audiences. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">The prevailing narrative insists that ageing creative directors monopolize the industry\u2019s top positions, leaving little room for younger designers who, it is argued, could inject fresh energy and ideas into an allegedly stagnant system. The issue, however, isn\u2019t talent\u2014according to these voices\u2014but age, a thinly veiled ageism that undermines the reality of what truly drives success in design. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">Over the past few years, this experiment in prioritizing youth over experience has played out, and its results are difficult to ignore. Take Sean McGirr, 35, at McQueen. His output thus far evokes McQ, the brand\u2019s failed diffusion line, devoid of the drama and artistry that defined Alexander McQueen\u2019s legacy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">The decision to drop \u201cAlexander\u201d from the name feels premature and dismissive of the founder\u2019s memory, a move that has alienated those who cherish the brand\u2019s history. Sarah Burton, criticized in her time, now appears almost visionary by comparison. Then there\u2019s Harris Reed, 28, whose work at Nina Ricci ranges from derivative to outright garish, while Maximilian Davis, 29, despite glimpses of talent, has yet to make Ferragamo relevant, with his collections falling increasingly flat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">Meanwhile, Sabato De Sarno, 41, has managed to strip Gucci of its excitement, delivering collections so uninspired that even the sales numbers confirm the brand\u2019s malaise. After a lacklustre debut, we were told to wait and see, but the verdict remains unchanged: his work is as dull as it is directionless. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">For those who couldn\u2019t sustain even brief tenures, the story is worse. Rhuigi Villase\u00f1or, 33, lasted just over a year at Bally before being replaced, and Ludovic de Saint-Sernin, 33, set a record for brevity, ousted from Ann Demeulemeester after one disappointing collection and just six months in the role. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">These failures highlight a glaring truth: the industry\u2019s eagerness to appease social media\u2019s demands for youth and newness has too often prioritized novelty over competence, resulting in a glaring lack of cohesion, vision, and respect for the craft. Yet, some brands are beginning to rethink this misguided approach. Lanvin recently turned to Peter Copping, 48, a seasoned designer with deep experience at Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci, earning praise for prioritizing skill and precision over age. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">Givenchy, after a lacklustre stint under 38-year-old Matthew Williams, returned to the proven talent of Sarah Burton, 50, whose expertise stands in stark contrast to her predecessor\u2019s struggles. And John Galliano, 63, once again reminded the industry of what true brilliance looks like with his artisanal collection for Maison Margiela\u2014a triumph so undeniable that even TikTok\u2019s younger audience was mesmerized. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">The real issue, however, runs deeper. Fashion today seems trapped in a cycle of creative exhaustion, its education system is increasingly focused on identity-driven narratives rather than nurturing imagination, craftsmanship, or innovation. The result is a generation of designers more attuned to messaging than mastery. Yet, the existence of young talents like Kei Ninomiya at Noir or Nensi Dojaka proves that age is neither a limitation nor a guarantee of success. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">Designers like Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent also show how evolution and experience can refine a creative voice over time. What the industry must recognize is that talent is the only true measure of worth in fashion\u2014not age, race, gender, or orientation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"margin-top:0;margin-right:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30);margin-bottom:0;margin-left:var(--wp--preset--spacing--30)\">The future of fashion depends on abandoning the shallow pursuit of trends dictated by social media and returning to this fundamental truth: great design comes from great designers, regardless of their demographics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-container uagb-block-c2f59b83 alignfull uagb-is-root-container\"><div class=\"uagb-container-inner-blocks-wrap\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-container uagb-block-4de5b666\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fabiopanzeri.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/172800813-816de837-bf67-40ad-beb3-509b981b2b81-2-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7951\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-container uagb-block-dbfdc7dd\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fabiopanzeri.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/https___hypebeast.com_image_2024_01_ludovic-de-saint-sernin-new-york-fashion-week-0001-2.avif\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7952\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-container uagb-block-6af272a5\"><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The generational divide has become a cultural fault line in fashion, fueled by social media and echoed by fashion media [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[29,31,28,30],"class_list":["post-7867","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-design-and-beyond","tag-designer","tag-fashion-biz","tag-fashion-design","tag-trade-show"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>\u201cFashion\u2019s Identity Crisis: The Misguided Pursuit of Youth Over Talent\u201d | FABIO PANZERI\u2122<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fabiopanzeri.com\/it_it\/2024\/11\/29\/the-mistery-of-jaguar-6\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" 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